Gardening Tips

Poisonous Plants: As we approach the holidays, there are a lot of questions on poisonous plants. Fortunately, many of these plants have a very bitter taste that limits the amount of the plant eaten. Poinsettia and mistletoe should be kept away from curious children, but the list includes other flowers and plants such as azaleas, calla lily, carnation, daffodil, foxglove, hydrangeas, iris, lantana, narcissus, poppy, sweet pea and tulips. Different parts of the plant may be toxic. Chapter 21 of the California Master Gardener Handbook contains more detailed information..

Citrus Bud Mite: Have you ever seen weirdly shaped lemons or oranges that appear to have 'fingers'? The Citrus Bud Mite attacks newly forming flowers and fruits. The mite is only visible with a magnifying glass and has a elongated yellow body with four legs that appear to come out of its head. The mites feed inside the buds, killing them or causing a rosette-like growth of the subsequent foliage and distortion of flowers and fruit. The problem is usually limited to just a few fruit on the tree. Previously recommended oil sprays have not proven effective. This is one of those pests that is best left alone. The oddly-shaped fruit is edible.

Sooty Mold: Aphids, scale, mealybug and whitefly all excrete sticky honeydew that is colonized by sooty mold fungi. By itself, the fungi cannot kill the plant but it can coat the leaves to the extent that sunlight is prevented from reaching the leaf surface. Ants protect the sucking insects from their predators in order to eat the honeydew. Keep ants out of trees and away from honeydew-producing insects by applying a sticky compound such as Tanglefoot (tm) on a tape wrapped around the trunk. Trim tree limbs touching buildings, fences or other access points as well. Baits such as ant stakes placed under trees and shrubs may help reduce ant foraging in some cases. A strong stream of water will wash the mold off leaves. The mold can be washed off fruit with mild soap and water. For ant information, see the UC IPM Pest Note on Ants.

Fall Planting: Now is the best time to pull up worn out plants and shrubs and replace them with fresh, healthy specimens. Larger plants such as perennials and shrubs need time to put down roots and settle in before they will bloom well. Here in the Santa Clara Valley, most plants do their growing in the winter with our mild temperatures and regular rainfall. This gives them a head start on surviving our hot, dry summers. Newly planted shrubs will need summer water the first few years, decreasing in amount over time.

Ants: The first step is to caulk cracks and other points of entry. One way to control ants in and around structures is to use toxic baits. Baits are formulated as solids or liquids and applied in stations or in the case of granules by broadcasting them. Ants are attracted to the bait and carry small portions of it back to the nest where it is given to other workers, larvae, and reproductive forms. To achieve wide distribution of the bait so the entire colony will be killed, the bait toxicant must be slow-acting. Some examples of toxicants used in ant baits are hydramethylnon, boric acid, and fipronil. Hydramethylnon is photodegradable, so if it is broadcasted in granular form it should be applied in the evening. Boric acid is most effective at concentrations of 1% or lower. Fipronil is a new class of toxicant that is effective against ants at ultra-low doses. Make sure you remove any crumbs or sweets from the area, so the bait is attractive to them. Refer to the UC IPM Pest Note on Ants.

Apples, Powdery Mildew: Leaves and shoots are a powdery white. Young growth can be distorted and stunted. The fungus can survive the winter in infected buds. Prune out the diseased twigs during the winter. Look for shoots that are white, with flattened, pointed buds. Also remove infected shoots and flower clusters in early spring. Several least-toxic fungicides are available, including horticultural oils, neem oil, jojoba oil, sulfur, potassium bicarbonate, bicarbonate of soda (baking soda), and the biological fungicides AQ10 and Serenade. With the exception of the oils, these materials are primarily preventive, although potassium bicarbonate has some eradicant activity. Oils work best as eradicants but also have some protectant activity. Benomyl or sulfur (liquid lime sulfur or wettable sulfur) can be used in the spring when the new growth appears as a preventive measure. This also works on scab. Pest Note, Powdery Mildew.

Borers, Pacific Flathead: Wet sappy area, usually on trunk. Oval holes appear in early summer. They attack weakened or stressed trees. Control –Provide proper cultural care to keep trees vigorous and resistant to attack by borers. Protect trees from injuries and prevent sunscald and other damage from abiotic causes. Prune out and dispose of dead limbs and remove dead and dying trees where borers breed. For more information on bark beetles, please view: Pest Note, Bark Beetles.

Bulbs, How To Plant: Plant in rich well draining soil (soil that has grown annuals or vegetables should be good for bulbs). Dig hole three times as deep as the bulb's diameter. Mix a tablespoon of fertilizer high in phosphorus and potassium into the bottom of each hole, then cover with about 2" of soil. Soak the area thoroughly.

Figs: Most figs have two crops. The first crop is borne on last years shoot growth and the second crop on the current years growth. Figs are a subtropical plant and do best in hot areas, but will grow well where temperate zone fruits grow, like our valley. They will tolerate a variety of soil conditions. Sandy loams to clay, even survive on shallow soils with hard pan, but prefer a 4 foot depth. The varieties that do well in this area are: Black Mission, Excel, Grosse Monstreuse. Prune your fig the first year to 3 or 4 structural branches during the dormant season. The object of pruning the first five years is to train the growth upward and outward. Thereafter some thinning of branches and shortening of long shoots is all that is needed to maintain a healthy vigorous tree.

For a first crop, some varieties bare fruit at the end of the branch, so some full length branches would be desirable. Figs tolerate drier soil conditions and with our clay soil a good soak every 4 to 6 weeks from May to July should do it. If the winter rains are not sufficient, start irrigation in March. During the first year the tree needs only a small amount (about a handful or 1/2 cup) of nitrogen like ammonium sulfate or you can use manure within the drip line about 1 inch thick. Apply in late winter or early spring and increase by 1/2 cup per year for the next 4 years if the tree isn't as robust as you think it should be. Mature fig trees need no more then 2 lb. and if the growth is more then 2 ft. a year it shouldn't be fertilized at all.

Some of the common problems with figs are fruit drop, nematodes, and leaf drop. Fruit drop is usually caused by cool weather and can be prevented by planting the right variety. Late season fruit can dry out and drop, because of insufficient heat. Nematodes will weaken the tree, leaves may fall, and fruit doesn't mature. In severe cases the tree will have to be removed. Mites can cause leaves to drop, improved irrigation can help. Spraying may be necessary. It is natural for older leaves to drop in late summer. Splitting fruit can be caused by high humidity, rain, or irrigation of a dry tree when the fruit is ripening. Harvest fruit when fully matured, firm, well colored, and the fruits bend over at the neck. I know when mine are ripe by the bird activity. Remove the fruit with the stem attached.

Fire Blight: Sudden wilting of tender shots, followed by shriveling and blackening, look scorched. Prune out well below infection, about 12". Spray a fixed copper at blossom time. Microcop is an example. (Refer to Pest Note, Fire Blight and Fruit Tree Care Calender)

Flower Pots, Cleaning: Dirty flower pots can carry disease in them. Scrub the pot clean with a brush and soak it in a solution of one part bleach to nine parts water for 10 minutes.

Ground Covers, Drought Tolerant: V Armeria maritima – Sea Thrift, Cerastium tomentosum – Snow in Summer, Ice Plant, Gazania, Sedum, etc. It is possible to have a beautiful landscape that is also water conserving. An excellent resource is a book entitled, WATER CONSERVING PLANTS FOR THE BAY AREA, published by East Bay Municipal Utility District (EBMUD). It has a section on ground covers but also includes many other types of plants. California natives are one choice but plants from other parts of the world with a climate similar to ours (the Mediterranean area, Australia, Chile, South Africa) expand those choices greatly. EBMUD used the following criteria in recommending the plants they chose: water conservation, attractive plants that are generally available, minimum pest and disease problems, little pruning or maintenance needs and compatibility with sprinkler systems. All the photos are in beautiful color and each plant is well described and charted, including plants that have aesthetic and cultural compatibility with the index plant. It is hard to ask for more. The book costs $15.00 and can be ordered with a check from EBMUD, P.O. Box 24055, Oakland, CA 94623.

Jerusalem Cricket (Potato Bug): This is one large ugly bug, 1 1/8 to 2 inches. In fact, you might have seen it in one of those 1950's "B" outer space movies. Very long antennae, shiny amber brown in color (dark brown crossbands on abdomen), wingless, large head, short legs, and slow moving. It lives mostly on hillsides under rocks and eats other insects, roots, potato tubers, and decaying vegetation. We do not consider this insect harmful. We have inquiries this month every year.

Lime, Stylar End Rot: Usually effects Persian limes, but can be on other limes and lemons. Depressed areas, which are firm or leathery and dry. It starts out looking like a water soaked, whitish-to-drab sunken patch at the base of the stylar tip (end) and can cover 1/4 to 1/2 of the fruit. Inside tissues at stylar end break down and become pinkish or brownish. You can pick before mature to cut losses. Extremely high temperatures can bring it on.

Oranges , Splitting: Changes in the weather are usual cause. High humidity after dry period can trigger.

Soil, White Fungus In: This is called saprophytic fungus and is not disease causing. The biggest problem is that it's hard to moisten the soil in the area that has the fungus. Removing the affected soil is sometimes the only solution. Water penetrant may also be helpful.

Termites, Dry Wood: They nest in wood. First signs of infestation are either the presence of winged forms or fecal pellets (looks like seeds) pushed out of the infested wood. We recommend you call a professional. (Refer to Pest Notes: Termites & Pest Note: Drywood Termites.)

Termite ID: At least once or twice a week someone stops in for a termite identification. They want to know for sure before they call the pest control company. The difference between termites and ants are:

Winged female and worker ants have elbowed antennae, termites don't.
If they have wings, there will be two pair. Ant wings are of unequal length and termite wings are equal in length.
Ants have a thin waist and termites have a broad waist.

Generally any wood to soil contact is a potential site for entry of subterranean termites. They will also damage paper, cardboard, cotton, and burlap, but decaying wood is their favorite. They create mud tunnels or tubes to bridge masonry or metal to access their wood food source. Look for the winged reproductives on window sills or near indoor light. Discarded termite wings may be found near cracks in walls and corners, window sills or in cobwebs. Drywood termites live in wood and do not need soil to wood contact. It may be years before you see the first signs because they are smaller and slower to develop. Look for winged forms or fecal pellets pushed out of the infested wood (May look like a pile of sawdust, but closer inspection will reveal seed-like granules that are six sided). Dampwood termites need a lot of moisture. They like damp decaying wood, but may extend their damage into good relatively dry wood. Treat as subterranean.

Homeowner's Yearly Inspection: Homeowners should do a yearly inspection of their home. Early detection by yourself may save you from having serious damage. All that is needed is a flashlight, ice pick or screwdriver, and ladder. Be sure to check where ever wood and soil make contact (fences, stairs, trellises, garage door moldings, and porches) . Also check behind dense shrubbery, where utilities enter the house, window and door frames. Look at the foundation of the house, garage, or other structures for the mud tubes coming up from the soil. Check for moisture around porches, connecting patios, sidewalks, and areas near kitchens or bathrooms. Open and examine exterior electrical meter or fuse boxes, as this is a common point of infestation. Indoors, use the handle of your screwdriver and gently tap wood structures like window sills, baseboards, hardwood flooring, and doors, listening for a dull thudding sound. Water stains on walls or ceilings can indicate water leaks which decay wood and attract termites.

Prevention: Try not to have anything that a termite will be attracted to, wood, moisture, and shelter. Wood, this could be a decaying stump, buried wood forms from construction, or a decaying chunk of root. If possible wood and soil should be separated by at least 18 inches. Use of pressure treated wood for construction if it will touch the soil. Remove debris from crawl space (cardboard, paper, etc.). Excess moisture should be eliminated. Good cross ventilation in your crawl space is important. Leaking plumbing and poor drainage (soil sloping towards the house) is a problem. Plastic barriers can be used under the house to prevent moisture buildup in the subflooring.

How To Find Reliable Company: Word of mouth, ask friends and neighbors. Call the Better Business Bureau. Read the contract carefully, because different companies may guarantee their work for differing amounts of time. Get several quotes. Refer to Pest Notes 7415 & 7440 (Refer to Pest Notes: Termites & Pest Note: Drywood Termites.)

Whitefly: Sprays usually don't work, reinfestation is fast. The Encarsia Wasps were released to control the Ash Whitefly. They are very tiny, so you can't see them. It could take a year or more to control them and sprays will kill the wasp. The program has been very effective. U.C. is working on one for the common whitefly. (Refer to Pest Note,White Fly )

Updated: 17-Oct-2004

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November Gardening Tips Poisonous Plants: As we approach the holidays, there are a lot of questions on poisonous plants. Fortunately, many of these plants have a very bitter taste that limits the amount of the plant eaten. Poinsettia and mistletoe should be kept away from curious children, but the list includes other flowers and plants such as azaleas, calla lily, carnation, daffodil, foxglove, hydrangeas, iris, lantana, narcissus, poppy, sweet pea and tulips. Different parts of the plant may be toxic. Chapter 21 of the California Master Gardener Handbook contains more detailed information.. Citrus Bud Mite: Have you ever seen weirdly shaped lemons or oranges that appear to have 'fingers'? The Citrus Bud Mite attacks newly forming flowers and fruits. The mite is only visible with a magnifying glass and has a elongated yellow body with four legs that appear to come out of its head. The mites feed inside the buds, killing them or causing a rosette-like growth of the subsequent foliage and distortion of flowers and fruit. The problem is usually limited to just a few fruit on the tree. Previously recommended oil sprays have not proven effective. This is one of those pests that is best left alone. The oddly-shaped fruit is edible. Sooty Mold: Aphids, scale, mealybug and whitefly all excrete sticky honeydew that is colonized by sooty mold fungi. By itself, the fungi cannot kill the plant but it can coat the leaves to the extent that sunlight is prevented from reaching the leaf surface. Ants protect the sucking insects from their predators in order to eat the honeydew. Keep ants out of trees and away from honeydew-producing insects by applying a sticky compound such as Tanglefoot (tm) on a tape wrapped around the trunk. Trim tree limbs touching buildings, fences or other access points as well. Baits such as ant stakes placed under trees and shrubs may help reduce ant foraging in some cases. A strong stream of water will wash the mold off leaves. The mold can be washed off fruit with mild soap and water. For ant information, see the UC IPM Pest Note on Ants. Fall Planting: Now is the best time to pull up worn out plants and shrubs and replace them with fresh, healthy specimens. Larger plants such as perennials and shrubs need time to put down roots and settle in before they will bloom well. Here in the Santa Clara Valley, most plants do their growing in the winter with our mild temperatures and regular rainfall. This gives them a head start on surviving our hot, dry summers. Newly planted shrubs will need summer water the first few years, decreasing in amount over time. Ants: The first step is to caulk cracks and other points of entry. One way to control ants in and around structures is to use toxic baits. Baits are formulated as solids or liquids and applied in stations or in the case of granules by broadcasting them. Ants are attracted to the bait and carry small portions of it back to the nest where it is given to other workers, larvae, and reproductive forms. To achieve wide distribution of the bait so the entire colony will be killed, the bait toxicant must be slow-acting. Some examples of toxicants used in ant baits are hydramethylnon, boric acid, and fipronil. Hydramethylnon is photodegradable, so if it is broadcasted in granular form it should be applied in the evening. Boric acid is most effective at concentrations of 1% or lower. Fipronil is a new class of toxicant that is effective against ants at ultra-low doses. Make sure you remove any crumbs or sweets from the area, so the bait is attractive to them. Refer to the UC IPM Pest Note on Ants. Apples, Powdery Mildew: Leaves and shoots are a powdery white. Young growth can be distorted and stunted. The fungus can survive the winter in infected buds. Prune out the diseased twigs during the winter. Look for shoots that are white, with flattened, pointed buds. Also remove infected shoots and flower clusters in early spring. Several least-toxic fungicides are available, including horticultural oils, neem oil, jojoba oil, sulfur, potassium bicarbonate, bicarbonate of soda (baking soda), and the biological fungicides AQ10 and Serenade. With the exception of the oils, these materials are primarily preventive, although potassium bicarbonate has some eradicant activity. Oils work best as eradicants but also have some protectant activity. Benomyl or sulfur (liquid lime sulfur or wettable sulfur) can be used in the spring when the new growth appears as a preventive measure. This also works on scab. Pest Note, Powdery Mildew. Borers, Pacific Flathead: Wet sappy area, usually on trunk. Oval holes appear in early summer. They attack weakened or stressed trees. Control –Provide proper cultural care to keep trees vigorous and resistant to attack by borers. Protect trees from injuries and prevent sunscald and other damage from abiotic causes. Prune out and dispose of dead limbs and remove dead and dying trees where borers breed. For more information on bark beetles, please view: Pest Note, Bark Beetles. Bulbs, How To Plant: Plant in rich well draining soil (soil that has grown annuals or vegetables should be good for bulbs). Dig hole three times as deep as the bulb's diameter. Mix a tablespoon of fertilizer high in phosphorus and potassium into the bottom of each hole, then cover with about 2" of soil. Soak the area thoroughly. Figs: Most figs have two crops. The first crop is borne on last years shoot growth and the second crop on the current years growth. Figs are a subtropical plant and do best in hot areas, but will grow well where temperate zone fruits grow, like our valley. They will tolerate a variety of soil conditions. Sandy loams to clay, even survive on shallow soils with hard pan, but prefer a 4 foot depth. The varieties that do well in this area are: Black Mission, Excel, Grosse Monstreuse. Prune your fig the first year to 3 or 4 structural branches during the dormant season. The object of pruning the first five years is to train the growth upward and outward. Thereafter some thinning of branches and shortening of long shoots is all that is needed to maintain a healthy vigorous tree. For a first crop, some varieties bare fruit at the end of the branch, so some full length branches would be desirable. Figs tolerate drier soil conditions and with our clay soil a good soak every 4 to 6 weeks from May to July should do it. If the winter rains are not sufficient, start irrigation in March. During the first year the tree needs only a small amount (about a handful or 1/2 cup) of nitrogen like ammonium sulfate or you can use manure within the drip line about 1 inch thick. Apply in late winter or early spring and increase by 1/2 cup per year for the next 4 years if the tree isn't as robust as you think it should be. Mature fig trees need no more then 2 lb. and if the growth is more then 2 ft. a year it shouldn't be fertilized at all. Some of the common problems with figs are fruit drop, nematodes, and leaf drop. Fruit drop is usually caused by cool weather and can be prevented by planting the right variety. Late season fruit can dry out and drop, because of insufficient heat. Nematodes will weaken the tree, leaves may fall, and fruit doesn't mature. In severe cases the tree will have to be removed. Mites can cause leaves to drop, improved irrigation can help. Spraying may be necessary. It is natural for older leaves to drop in late summer. Splitting fruit can be caused by high humidity, rain, or irrigation of a dry tree when the fruit is ripening. Harvest fruit when fully matured, firm, well colored, and the fruits bend over at the neck. I know when mine are ripe by the bird activity. Remove the fruit with the stem attached. Fire Blight: Sudden wilting of tender shots, followed by shriveling and blackening, look scorched. Prune out well below infection, about 12". Spray a fixed copper at blossom time. Microcop is an example. (Refer to Pest Note, Fire Blight and Fruit Tree Care Calender) Flower Pots, Cleaning: Dirty flower pots can carry disease in them. Scrub the pot clean with a brush and soak it in a solution of one part bleach to nine parts water for 10 minutes. Ground Covers, Drought Tolerant: V Armeria maritima – Sea Thrift, Cerastium tomentosum – Snow in Summer, Ice Plant, Gazania, Sedum, etc. It is possible to have a beautiful landscape that is also water conserving. An excellent resource is a book entitled, WATER CONSERVING PLANTS FOR THE BAY AREA, published by East Bay Municipal Utility District (EBMUD). It has a section on ground covers but also includes many other types of plants. California natives are one choice but plants from other parts of the world with a climate similar to ours (the Mediterranean area, Australia, Chile, South Africa) expand those choices greatly. EBMUD used the following criteria in recommending the plants they chose: water conservation, attractive plants that are generally available, minimum pest and disease problems, little pruning or maintenance needs and compatibility with sprinkler systems. All the photos are in beautiful color and each plant is well described and charted, including plants that have aesthetic and cultural compatibility with the index plant. It is hard to ask for more. The book costs $15.00 and can be ordered with a check from EBMUD, P.O. Box 24055, Oakland, CA 94623. Jerusalem Cricket (Potato Bug): This is one large ugly bug, 1 1/8 to 2 inches. In fact, you might have seen it in one of those 1950's "B" outer space movies. Very long antennae, shiny amber brown in color (dark brown crossbands on abdomen), wingless, large head, short legs, and slow moving. It lives mostly on hillsides under rocks and eats other insects, roots, potato tubers, and decaying vegetation. We do not consider this insect harmful. We have inquiries this month every year. Lime, Stylar End Rot: Usually effects Persian limes, but can be on other limes and lemons. Depressed areas, which are firm or leathery and dry. It starts out looking like a water soaked, whitish-to-drab sunken patch at the base of the stylar tip (end) and can cover 1/4 to 1/2 of the fruit. Inside tissues at stylar end break down and become pinkish or brownish. You can pick before mature to cut losses. Extremely high temperatures can bring it on. Oranges , Splitting: Changes in the weather are usual cause. High humidity after dry period can trigger. Soil, White Fungus In: This is called saprophytic fungus and is not disease causing. The biggest problem is that it's hard to moisten the soil in the area that has the fungus. Removing the affected soil is sometimes the only solution. Water penetrant may also be helpful. Termites, Dry Wood: They nest in wood. First signs of infestation are either the presence of winged forms or fecal pellets (looks like seeds) pushed out of the infested wood. We recommend you call a professional. (Refer to Pest Notes: Termites & Pest Note: Drywood Termites.) Termite ID: At least once or twice a week someone stops in for a termite identification. They want to know for sure before they call the pest control company. The difference between termites and ants are: Winged female and worker ants have elbowed antennae, termites don't. If they have wings, there will be two pair. Ant wings are of unequal length and termite wings are equal in length. Ants have a thin waist and termites have a broad waist. Generally any wood to soil contact is a potential site for entry of subterranean termites. They will also damage paper, cardboard, cotton, and burlap, but decaying wood is their favorite. They create mud tunnels or tubes to bridge masonry or metal to access their wood food source. Look for the winged reproductives on window sills or near indoor light. Discarded termite wings may be found near cracks in walls and corners, window sills or in cobwebs. Drywood termites live in wood and do not need soil to wood contact. It may be years before you see the first signs because they are smaller and slower to develop. Look for winged forms or fecal pellets pushed out of the infested wood (May look like a pile of sawdust, but closer inspection will reveal seed-like granules that are six sided). Dampwood termites need a lot of moisture. They like damp decaying wood, but may extend their damage into good relatively dry wood. Treat as subterranean. Homeowner's Yearly Inspection: Homeowners should do a yearly inspection of their home. Early detection by yourself may save you from having serious damage. All that is needed is a flashlight, ice pick or screwdriver, and ladder. Be sure to check where ever wood and soil make contact (fences, stairs, trellises, garage door moldings, and porches) . Also check behind dense shrubbery, where utilities enter the house, window and door frames. Look at the foundation of the house, garage, or other structures for the mud tubes coming up from the soil. Check for moisture around porches, connecting patios, sidewalks, and areas near kitchens or bathrooms. Open and examine exterior electrical meter or fuse boxes, as this is a common point of infestation. Indoors, use the handle of your screwdriver and gently tap wood structures like window sills, baseboards, hardwood flooring, and doors, listening for a dull thudding sound. Water stains on walls or ceilings can indicate water leaks which decay wood and attract termites. Prevention: Try not to have anything that a termite will be attracted to, wood, moisture, and shelter. Wood, this could be a decaying stump, buried wood forms from construction, or a decaying chunk of root. If possible wood and soil should be separated by at least 18 inches. Use of pressure treated wood for construction if it will touch the soil. Remove debris from crawl space (cardboard, paper, etc.). Excess moisture should be eliminated. Good cross ventilation in your crawl space is important. Leaking plumbing and poor drainage (soil sloping towards the house) is a problem. Plastic barriers can be used under the house to prevent moisture buildup in the subflooring. How To Find Reliable Company: Word of mouth, ask friends and neighbors. Call the Better Business Bureau. Read the contract carefully, because different companies may guarantee their work for differing amounts of time. Get several quotes. Refer to Pest Notes 7415 & 7440 (Refer to Pest Notes: Termites & Pest Note: Drywood Termites.) Whitefly: Sprays usually don't work, reinfestation is fast. The Encarsia Wasps were released to control the Ash Whitefly. They are very tiny, so you can't see them. It could take a year or more to control them and sprays will kill the wasp. The program has been very effective. U.C. is working on one for the common whitefly. (Refer to Pest Note,White Fly ) Updated: 17-Oct-2004 Gardening Tips \| Events \| Best Picks \| Publications \| Links \| Projects Master Gardeners of Santa Clara County University of California Cooperative Extension 1553 Berger Drive, Bldg. 1, San Jose, CA 95112 www.mastergardeners.org Website related comments: webmaster@mastergardeners.org © 1997-2008