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Gardening Tips
Fruit and Chilling: Wondering why fruit trees are producing so little or in some cases no fruit? The combination of lack of cold evening temperatures and warm days at the right time during winter is the reason. Chilling hours are calculated by adding up the hours of below 45F. Chilling hours influence bud break, fruit set and fruit development. Insufficient chilling is probably the most limiting factor for sweet cherry, peach, apricot, nectarine and apple fruit yield here in the Santa Clara Valley. Chilling hour requirements range from four days (<100 hours) for persimmons to six to eight weeks for sweet cherries. For more information, visit the UC Fruit & Nut Research Information Center.
What's Eating My Fruit? Is there a hole that has teeth marks? Then it's probably roof rats or squirrels. Is there a hole that looks like the fruit has been stabbed? It's likely birds. There are several ways to keep the fruit for your family. Summer prune so the tree stays small enough to be covered with bird netting. Erecting a PVC pipe frame first eases net installation. Weigh down the net at ground level. If the tree is large, try pruning the branches so nothing touches any structure or other plant. This reduces rat and squirrel access. Purchase some bird scare tape that is a shiny Mylar tape. Tie an 18" length to a bamboo pole that's long enough to emerge out the top of the tree. Use several on each tree. Put out right before the fruit is ripe and remove it as soon as you are finished harvesting.
Fire Blight: Fire blight bacteria symptoms are seen as blackened dead branches and twigs that have a torched look. It hits ornamentals like pyracantha, cotoneaster, flowering pear and crabapple, mountain ash, hawthorn and fruit trees such as apple, pear, loquat and quince. It overwinters in cankers or wounds and resumes bacterial growth in the spring. There may or may not be oozing from the canker. It is spread by insects, rain, or pruning. The infection can extend into the trunk or root system and may kill the tree. Prune the infected branch about eight inches below the dead area. Spraying during bloom is the preventative method of control. See the pest note for more information.
Certified Arborists: The Master Gardeners get calls asking about how to trim trees or identify problems with trees. Sometimes we can help over the phone and send specific tree information such as how to take care of avocado trees or citrus trees, but when the caller is unable to bring in a sample or send photos or adequately describe the problem, we send a list of ISA Certified Arborists. You can go to the ISA website and find arborists through your home's zip code.
Fruit Tree Overload: If you have a fruit tree that is ready to pick and you just don't have the time or energy or motivation to pick the fruit before it falls and rots, please contact Village Harvest. This terrific organization has volunteers who will come to your garden and remove the fruit. The fruit is then donated to food bank organizations such as Second Harvest. Because of the demand for their services, they are focusing on senior or disabled homeowners, orchards or gardens with several trees. Their website gives hints on how to manage your fruit production reasonably and has many links to fruit tree information. Their telephone number is (888) FRUIT-411.
Irrigation: Check your irrigation system to be sure it's in full working order. If you have drip lines, open the end and turn on the water to clean out the line. Close the end of the line and check that each emitter or sprayer is working properly and isn't clogged. Check popup sprinklers for full spray and for proper placement of water. Plants grow larger during the winter and spring and may be blocking the water from reaching the expected location. Also unneeded spray watering of shrubs and trees can cause disease problems. Make sure the irrigation timer is set correctly as well.
Mulching: Mulching is an effective technique to keep soil temperatures even, to retain moisture and to prevent weeds from germinating. Mulching with organic matter such as chipped tree trimmings, compost or barks not only reduces water usage but also improves the organic content and texture of soil. Apply at least two to three inches of material (three to six inches of larger bark pieces), keeping it several inches away from the trunks of trees and shrubs to prevent crown rots. Renew every few years as it decomposes and enriches the soil.
Aphids, in plum or other fruit tree: Ants in your tree, leaves curled and deformed(looks like peach leaf curl), are signs that there is an infestation of aphids. They affect the new leaves as they open. There are several ways of handling this problem. First try getting rid of the ants by using a 4 inch wide band of tanglefoot around the trunk of the tree. Try spraying the affected area with a soap (liquid dish soap like Ivory, Palmolive, etc.) and water spray, making sure you get all the surfaces of the leaves. If the infestation is really bad, cut out the affected areas. Pest Note, Aphids is free.
Bearded Iris: They have mostly stopped blooming. Young clumps should have their old flower stocks removed, so they don't waste energy producing seed. 3 or 4 year old clumps should be divided because they have exhausted the nutrients in the soil and their blossom production will go down. The youngest healthiest roots are at the outer edges of the clump. Choose growth with a double fan, 3 - 4 leaves, and a Y shaped root, plant these.
Bee Swarms: I have seen three swarms, two in my yard, and one at Prusch. They are clumped together hanging from a tree branch or twig. The one in my yard looked like a brown bag hanging on my Bottle Brush. The bees are usually full of honey and docile, especially when it gets cooler. The hive has gotten overcrowded, the queen leaves taking part of the bees with her. They hang there for a few days and then leave. It's a natural occurrence and very interesting to observe. Leave them alone and they won't bother you. If you really can't stand them, there are some bee keepers that will come and get them.
Birds Eating Fruit: There a several things to try. At most nurseries, you can buy nets to throw over the tree . You can take a ball of string and repeatedly throw it over the tree in different directions (like teenagers TPing a girlfriends tree). Some people have luck hanging metallic objects or red and silver mylar tape in the tree.
Earwigs: Earwigs are second only to snails and slugs. They eat almost anything soft. They do have a good side to them, as they eat insects such as aphids. Unfortunately they also feed on soft plants. They can do quite a lot of damage if there is a high population. Earwigs are nocturnal, coming out to feed at night, and running back to hide in a moist, tight fitting place during the day. You can trap them by putting out moistened, tightly rolled newspaper or corrugated cardboard in the evening. In the morning dispose of the paper and the trapped insects.
English Daisies, in the lawn: The little flowers that grow in the lawn in places like Golden Gate Park are called English daisies. They used to be considered weeds, but are becoming quite popular. Some grass seed mixes include them in their mix now. You can mow and they keep coming back, continually blooming. It is a true daisy, from which all other daisies take their name. They are 6 to 8 inches tall, if allowed to mature. They have single or double white, pink, rose, or red flowers from early spring through summer. The seeds are very small, but germinate easily. Best sown in the fall, but can be sown now. Most seed catalogs have English daisy seeds.
Geraniums Not Flowering: Probably too much water, too much fertilizer, or both. Geraniums need a drier area in your yard, if this isn't possible, try potting them.
Ginseng, American, growing: American ginseng is a perennial plant native to the central and eastern regions of the US and Canada. Its natural habitat is a moderate to rich, well drained soil, with a pH of 5.5, and shaded by hardwood trees. They are collected in the wild much the same as mushrooms Wild ginseng is much more highly regarded than the cultivated version and may become an endangered species. Wisconsin is the primary producer of cultivated American ginseng. It is usually grown on raised beds. Shade is provided by wood lath or black polypropylene screening. Mulching is important because it acts as a buffer for moisture and temperature fluctuations. Ginseng grows very slowly, 5 to 8 years, sometimes longer. Growth beyond five years usually shows branching which is perceived as greater value because the root resembles the human figure. Plants are deciduous, and foliage is slow and sparse. The three to five palm like leaves only appear after 3 to 4 years growth. At this time a flower is also produced, a tall umbel with 15 to 50 small greenish white flower. Flowers are removed to promote root growth, but some will be allowed to produce seed. The rhizome grows upright or horizontally at the base of the stem. Native plant growth is much slower than cultivated growth. Harvest involves digging out the roots after leaf fall. The roots are cleaned and cured by drying. The dried roots are aromatic, have a licorice like taste, and are used in a powdered form in numerous preparations. Ginseng is susceptible to diseases like damping off, anthracnose, verticillium, and root rots. The insect pests are leafhoppers, aphids, and cutworms. Rootknot nematode, snails, slugs, mice, and weeds can also be a problem. Growing ginseng seems like a real challenge.
Peachtree Borer: Small piles of reddish or brown sawdust like frass on the base of the tree trunk. After winter rains, sap oozes through damaged areas, normally at ground level. The larva is a 1 in. white worm with a brown head. If you carefully dig into the bark, you can see them now. The Peachtree borer attacks mostly young trees of the peach, apricot, cherry, prunes, plums, almonds, many native and ornamental Prunus species. In June, use a course spray of Thiodan, applied from the crotch down, and puddling at the base.
Roses, basal cane or suckers: It is very difficult for an inexperienced rose grower to tell the difference between a basal cane and a sucker. They both shoot straight up with vigorous growth. The sucker comes from below the bud union (the bump just below where the rose starts to branch). The foliage, thorns, and growth are entirely different than the rest of the plant. It is usually longer and more willowy than a basal cane. Also it does not terminate in a bud. The sucker should be cut off at the point of origin. The basal cane originates at the bud union and all its characteristics are the same as the plant. This is the best wood on the plant and should be left on. It grows tall with a cluster of blooms at the top. It is best to pinch out the tip when it is about 18 inches long.
Rose Diseases: It seems worse this year, our late wet year. These diseases can be quite common in our area. Blackspot is a fungus. Circular black spots appear on leaves. The leaf turns yellow and drops off. Powdery Mildew is also a fungus. White powdery masses on the leaf, stem, and bud, distorting and stunting them. With Rust the leaves wilt and may drop off. The top of the leaf can have light green mottling and yellow dots. The under side of the leaf has powdery rust colored spores. We have been trying a non toxic spray this year and it seems to be working well against all three of these problems. To each gallon of water add 3-4 tsp. Volck Oil or Sunspray (a garden oil available at most garden centers) and 3-4 tsp. Arm and Hammer Baking Soda, mix well. Use a fine spray and apply to affected plants. This also controls foliar vegetable diseases. Some plants may show some sensitivity. Pest Note, Powdery Mildew.
Scale: Scale is in its crawler stage. When scale is in its armor stage it is very resistant to sprays. It is this during crawler stage that you can control them. They are soft and vulnerable. Spray with a horticultural oil, once a month for three months. Pest Note, Scale.
Tomato Blossom End Rot: The brown depression on the bottom of the tomato can be caused by two things. A lack of calcium in the soil or irregular watering. Use gypsum for the calcium and water consistently. Mulching the plant would also be a good idea.
Vegetables, container growing: Container grown veggies can be quite decorative as well as good to eat. One of the biggest problems is that containers dry out very fast and nutrients wash away, both are solvable. Almost any vegetable can be grown in a container if given the proper care. Eggplant, peppers, tomatoes, lettuce, onions, carrots, cucumbers, and herbs do well. You can use most any container, but clay, which dries out so fast, and may make it necessary to water twice a day. Vegetables like a nice roomy container. There must be drain-age holes in the bottom, but it is not necessary or recommended that you put pebbles or broken crockery in the bottom. Use a good commercial potting mix (not planter or planting mix) or you can make your own (one part peat moss, one part garden loam, one part sand, and a slow release fertilizer 14-14-14). Group your containers together, so they will shade one another. The hot summer sun can heat the soil to unhealthy levels. Water whenever the soil is dry, test by digging your fingers into the dirt. Sometimes you may have to water more than once a day. A simple drip system is so easy to install and will make your container garden almost foolproof. Add a timer, a patio chair, relax and enjoy. Fertilize every week with a water soluble fertilizer like Miracle-Gro.
Updated: 28-May-2005
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