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December Gardening Topics
by Diana Bebbington and Larry Johnson

RosesIsn’t it time to think of inviting the rose into your garden?
December and January are the perfect time to add roses to the garden. Bare-root plants are dug up when they are dormant, and they are usually packed in plastic bags. Bare-root roses are usually available in a much broader selection than container roses. They are also usually less expensive and easier to plant than roses in a container. All varieties of hybrid teas, floribundas, climbers, miniatures, and shrubs, should be available. If you are looking for a particular rose, then you might call around, since each nursery carries their favorites. For advice on selecting rose varieties that do best in our area, see the Santa Clara County Rose Society web site.

In general, roses grown in USDA Zones 8-10, need no special precautions for the winter. Pruning is done in January when the plant is at maximum hibernation to prevent new growth that might be killed by frost. We will cover this along with fruit tree pruning in next month’s Tips & Events.

Refer to this article for an extensive article on Rose Propagation.

Winter Fruit Tree Care
Excerpted from “Northern California Gardening”, by Katherine Grace Endicott

“Dormant spraying with horticultural oils kills over-wintering insect eggs, mites, soft-bodied insects, and some scales by blocking the supply of oxygen and suffocation the pests. Applied in winter, the dormant spray does not reach fruits or harm beneficial insects. Dormant spraying is done in 2 or 3 doses, and the first application is made in December. Deciduous fruit trees, some deciduous shrubs and rose bushes should be sprayed after they have lost their leaves.

  • Horticultural oils (also called dormant oils) are highly refined petroleum oils that are manufactured specifically for use on plants.
  • Mineral Solutions of lime and copper sulfate are also used as dormant oils sprays to control specific pests on specific trees. They can be combined with horticultural oil for broader coverage.
  • Lime Sulfur controls anthracnose, apple scab, brown rot, peach leaf curl and powdery mildew.

This time of year it’s most important to do your first spray of Peaches, Nectarines and Apricots for Peach Leaf Curl; a water-activated fungus which attacks during the blossoming stage. It is important to spray just before the pink buds open when they resemble popcorn about to pop. Bordeaux mixture (hydrated lime and copper sulfate) controls brown rot, peach leaf curl, some grape diseases, some apple diseases, downy mildew and many fungal diseases. Sulfur controls fugal spores, brown rot, peach scab, apple scab and powdery mildew.

Be sure to follow the application directions. Many lime and sulfur based oils are caustic so wear protective clothing, goggles and long rubber gloves. Use a clean, quality sprayer. Aim a fine spray onto the bare branches and limbs and cover. Spray only when the temperature is above 45 degrees F. Hose everything off when done and wash your clothes.”

The Master Gardeners Fruit Tree and Vine care calendar (pdf) provides excellent advice about caring for fruit trees and vines. For more information, see our list of Fruits for Santa Clara County. For instructions about how to plant and care for young fruit trees, refer to UC Publication 8048 (pdf).

DECEMBER CHECKLIST

Frost Protection: Although the coldest months in the Bay Area are usually January and February, gardeners should watch for signs of approaching frost now because an early or a late frost causes the most plant damage. Frost can kill tender plants, so protection is a good idea on those cold winter nights. If plants are potted, then move them to a sheltered area such as a porch, under the eves on the south side of the house or even under a tree. Be sure to uncover them during the day. Moving them indoors to a cool room would be good if possible. Protect tender plants such as bougainvillea, citrus, fuchsia and succulents by covering them when frost is expected. Remove the covering when the temperature rises. If you use frost cloth (sold in garden outlets) the cloth can remain in place. For extra protection, wrap larger plants with Christmas tree lights. Turn the lights on at night. In areas where the temperature does not go much below freezing, protect vulnerable plants by spraying them with an anti-transpirant (available at nurseries). Don't prune frost damage on a plant until new growth starts in spring. The dead material helps protect the plant from further damage.

Winter Watering: Most lawns and gardens will need less water in December because of the cold and wet weather. If you haven’t changed your irrigation schedule since the summer, now is a good time to make the adjustments.

Garden Maintenance: Continue routine maintenance such as weeding, raking and cleanup, which will discourage garden pests from wintering in the garden. After the fruit trees have dropped their leaves, spray the plants with horticultural oil diluted with water to the manufacturer's specifications. Dormant sprays kill overwintering insect eggs, mites, soft-bodied insects and some scales.

Holiday plants: Plants bought for indoor bloom need special attention. Azaleas and cyclamen are outdoor plants. They despise being trapped inside a hot, dry house, but like the gardener, they endure it. Misting them keeps them happier indoors. Unlike chrysanthemums, azaleas and cyclamen sold for indoor use do just fine when later transplanted outdoors. Poinsettias have been bred to become truly long-lasting indoor holiday plants. They like to be slightly moist and placed out of drafts of hot or cold air.

Updated: 01-Dec-2007

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