pruning

Learn how summer pruning can be an effective way to control the size of your fruit trees.  Fruit thinning and espalier techniques will also be demonstrated.

Followed by Open Garden and tours of the gardens with Master Gardeners, from 11 a.m. - 1 p.m.

Master Gardener Sue Bell will share her expert knowledge on pruning and maintaining a beautiful landscape at home. Sue is a garden consultant and designer and is a veritable fount of information. Come learn how to avoid the "uglies" and "gee, it will grow back again, won't ir?" problems with pruning your ornamentals.

Space is limited. Phone the MetroEd/Erikson office at (408) 723-6450 during regular business hours to sign up, or email RitaB@metroed.net.

Master Gardener Sue Bell will talk about which shrubs to prune and not prune, and what to do in the garden in the winter.   Sue has an extensive garden and is known for her passion for design and cut flowers so come with your questions!

Pruning fruit trees is always a popular topic! Pruning will:

*Control tree's size for easier care in maintaining and picking fruit

* Increase strength - develop strong limb structure

* Distribute sunlight evenly throughout tree

* Regulate fruit bearing - remove excess fruitwood

* Renew fruitwood - continue strong buds and flowers

* Remove undesirable wood - dead, broken and crossing branches

The best time of year to prune fruit trees is the dormant season, December, January (best) and until the middle of February, but note summer schedule for Apricots.

See also the University of California guide for home orchards at http://homeorchard.ucdavis.edu

The workshop is free but registration is required. Please register by contacting RitaB@metroed.net or calling 408-723-6450 from Monday through Friday during business hours.

Join experienced Master Gardeners who will show you the best techniques for dormant pruning.

Lorrie Freeman, MG 1992

To root hardwood cuttings:

In the dormant season, it is very easy to root cuttings of your roses. Prepare a 5-gallon or larger container (with good drainage) by filling it about 2 inches with garden soil; then with construction-grade sand (large particles) fill up to 1 inch below the top of the container. Moisten well. With a stick, make 5 or 6 deep holes. Cut 10 to 12-inch pieces of the rose canes you want to propagate. Use firm wood from the middle of the cane, not the soft tops. Label the cut canes with the name of the variety; a loop of masking tape around the cane works well. Insert the cuttings into the deep holes, with at least three eyes under the sand; firm sand around cuttings. (Dipping the bottom of the cutting in a rooting hormone before planting may help.) Water well and keep moist constantly. Grow the new plants in sun or open shade. It is not necessary to cover with plastic. After three months, carefully lift each cutting out individually with a tablespoon. Plant or share extras.

Thoughts on Pruning Roses

First, have the correct tools and have them sharp: bypass clippers, lopers and a pruning saw. And protect yourself with thornproof gloves. Wear a long-sleeved jacket and strong pants like denim or material that won't snag. If doing climbers, especially, protect your eyes.

Keep in mind Austins have both modern and old garden rose 'blood', so follow local guidelines for both types as much as sensible. Also, if this is the first or second winter you're pruning, do no more than cut the spent bloom and it's one-year growth down 1/3 -- as well as cutting out dead wood, crossing canes (that will damage each other when windswept) and "frivolous" spindly and small, fussy stuff. If it's a first or second year rose that has grown out of all control (and some may do just that), you have to be more "ruthless."